Monday 18th of November. For three weeks, a vicious fight opposed us to the infamous Customs of Buenos Aires, which were holding the batteries of our bikes at the airport. We were stuck in Salta, but received help from our sponsor VELOSCOOT, and our Argentinian friends in Buenos Aires. Phone calls streamed between us, the Customs and our carrier TNT. But the information came in dribs and drabs, and despite our good faith (No, we do not want to sell them!) the situation got bogged down …

Juan, our friend and informant in Buenos Aires, sent us one of his creations. It’s a sour laughter but the smile is here: we better take this ridiculous matter with humor. Gracias !

Today, we gave up. The customs office seems impregnable. The batteries will be repatriated in France and will be returned in a country with lighter importation rules for batteries, probably Costa Rica. Until then, our legs will be our only motor!

Today we are leaving Salta. We’re ready, ready for the first big challenge of the trip : the laguna road, in southwestern Bolivia. Two weeks between 4000 and 5000m above sea level, two weeks in food self-sufficiency, two weeks without seeing a hint of tar on the roads…

And 2 weeks with temperatures that could reach -20°C at night. So we equipped consequently:

– Ski gloves. Classic. (imported, so very expensive: around 300 pesos)
– Woman tights size 50. A little less conventional, but much cheaper than technical tights.
– Coats 100% duck feathers… In Salta, our host Gando made us discover a second-hand clothes market. As the summer is approaching, there were not a lot of coats but with perseverance (clothes packed in bulk have led us into a real archaeological dig), we found happiness. A very good deal: 250 pesos 2 coats. (when one is sold 2000 pesos in specialized stores…)

Woman coats also, right?

So we are ready to go. But before we launch ourselves into the wilderness, we owe a huge thanks to Gando, who hosted us during these 3 weeks in Salta.

Muchas gracias Gando, recordaremos por su hospitalidad… y por la Balcarce!

GOODBYE ARGENTINA, HELLO BOLIVIA !

PS : The countdown has begun… Three weeks of radio silence from now!